Ocean Passages

The Lofotens

Headed to Henningsvaer

Next stop north was the Lofotens.  This group of islands in northern norway is known for its dramatic peaks that come straight out of the ocean.  Our first stop was Henningsvaer.  When we sailed into town, we found our friend Jim on “Lisken” – one of the four American boats currently in Norway.  We met Lisken in Kinsale, Ireland in August 2017 so it was good to see him a little farther north almost a year later.  Henningsvaer is a sports-oriented town with rock climbing, hiking and sea kayaking.  The weather while we were there was really only good for sea kayaking so we had a great time seeing the landscape from a different perspective.

Fog Stop

We left Henningsvaer with a forecast of clearing fog to head up to Ramsundet and Trollfjorden.  But as we made our way, the fog got heavier.  So we anchored off a small island and let it pass.  By 1pm, it looked good enough to give it another try.  As we headed out, the fog slowly came back, even thicker than before.  So we tied up to a dock in Gullvika that looked brand new with no one around.  It had been a challenge for a few weeks to keep the boys fed.  They consumer more than I could ever imagine.  After a long hike in Gullvika, I accepted the challenge to have Keegan and Brennan say “I am stuffed” – what seemed impossible.  I made them each two burritos and filled them with the best fillers possible – beans, quinoa and the kicker – potatoes.  I am happy to report, they barely made it through.  Keegan celebrated with a jump in the 45 degree arctic water.


The next morning, the sun was out, the fog was gone and we headed up Trollfjorden.  This narrow fjord off of Ramsundet is a tourist attraction because of the closeness of its walls.  Cruise ships take passengers up the fjord where a person could touch each side as it turns around.  With no options to tie up in Trollfjorden, we headed back to Lille Molle and beach time for Kala.  She frolicked and played with sticks and was loving Norway as much as we were.  

Stop in Stamsund

It was time to keep moving so our next stop in the Lofotens was Stamsund.  It was a beautiful day with the wind behind us.  We unfurled the headsail for a downwind sail, gybing with a crew of four.  Stamsund is a great little fishing village who still had the heads of the cods on the drying racks from the winter fishing trips.    

Tied To Shore

After Stamsund, we were heading to the town of Reine but with wind on the nose and conditions not improving, we decided instead to head to a small anchorage called Kunna.  The only concern was there was not enough room to swing at anchor.  So, we dropped the bow anchor and used pitons to tie a line to shore to keep Terrapin’s stern from moving towards the rocks.   With Terrapin secure, we headed to shore for some great hiking.

Sad Goodbye

From Kunna, we started to move east again to Bodo.  Brennan and Keegan had been on the boat for six weeks and the time had come to fly back to AK.  It was so great to have them on Terrapin.  The adventures we shared and the memories we made will last forever.  

Beautiful Kunna anchorage
Downwind sailing in the Lofotens
Gullvika dock
The fog lifting
Stamsund’s winter supply of cod as it dries through the summer
Terrapin in Trollfjorden
Cod on drying racks
Lille Molle
Kayaking in Henningsvaer
A new perspective
Kayaking around the markers
Paddling through town
Silly to even suggest….
Henningsvaer, Norway